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图片：Costume National Homme
(最后更新日期：2009年10月18日完稿)

文字：W @ London 时仕Stymen.com
图片编辑：Lol @ NYC 时仕Stymen.com
未经许可，请勿转载
(最后更新日期：2009年10月19日，完稿)

不管是设计师Ennio Capasa在秀场后台所说的那种“神秘、浪漫和觉醒”，还是向David Bowie致敬的灵感来源，我在这场秀中都没有找到依据。如果生拉硬拽的话：不同材质营造出的黑色、灰色搭配，营造出神秘的气氛；整体廓型的搭配，特别是几套收腰大衣搭配宽松西装裤的造型，显得有一些浪漫飘逸；而一些不对称的设计细节，显示出一些设计师脑中的前卫觉醒气质。至于David Bowie，Ennio Capasa近期正在为这位英伦巨星打理造型，这一季的设计应该融入了天王的一些灵感。注意上图皮夹克的拉锁，很有巧思的细节设计。卷起的牛仔裤搭配短靴，是这一季的造型重点。

短款的反光面料夹克，看似很平常，但是应用不同亮度的材质进行混搭，显得很前卫。这一季，Costume National大量用了条格西装裤，很宽松的设计，穿起来很舒适。大号的皮包，依然是男装配饰流行的趋势，但是我真的有些烦了！提着真的很重，如果不是短途旅行或者是健身房，我都尽量避免使用。

上图这件大衣，远看觉得很普通，近看会发现质地很舒适，再加上半拉锁设计的小巧思，有点类似于晚宴燕尾服。而至于全身三角套的造型，我则反感。同色系的安全方案，还是留给普通男人使用吧，专业设计师应该更大胆一些。

上图这件风衣，是我唯一考虑购买的这一季Costume National Homme的单品。同样是两种反光面料的混搭，整体廓型特别是腰带的设计很复古，对经典的款式进行投资，应该不会错！况且，我真的很少有黑色系的风衣，几乎都是驼色。

上面这件大衣很有设计感，首先是下摆收拢的廓型，不对称的剪裁，肩部接缝有些像胶带粘合的设计，再加上向晚礼服的领口设计，应该是这一季最精彩的部分。

总体觉得Costume National Homme这一季的设计过于安全，也可以理解为设计师Ennio Capasa应对金融危机比较安全的市场策略。

文字：X @ 时仕Stymen.com
图片：Daniel Peddle & Costume National Homme @ Frillr
英文采访：CN Blog 15/6/2009
未经许可，请勿转载
(最后更新日期：2009年10月15日)

这幅用水彩、木炭、盐和金箔创作的艺术作品，来自艺术家Daniel Peddle。画中的人物是澳大利亚男模Jethro Cave。这幅作品的创作并非偶然，Daniel Peddle的另一个身份是“选角指导”。他为Costume National Homme 2009/10秋冬男装秀进行模特的选角，Jethro Cave被他挑选出来作为开场与闭幕模特，整场秀一共演示了三套服装，可见对他的器重。

 男模Jethro Cave是澳大利亚传奇音乐人Nick Cave的儿子，凭借独特的气质，他陆续登上《i-D》、《Vogue Hommes Japan》、《V Man》、《Dazed & Confused》等杂志，更是曾经代言Tomman 2009春夏广告。

Jethro Cave的鬼脸
水彩，木炭，盐和金箔，29" x 41" - 2009

关于这幅艺术作品的创作背景，对Daniel Peddle的英文采访原文（暂未翻译）：

Who is Jethro Cave and what struck you about him??

Jethro Cave is a model and also Nick Cave’s son. We cast him in Costume’s Men Show F/W09 and he actually opened the show. This is a coveted position as it sets the tone for the entire event. He has that perfect mix of coolness, style and elegance that Ennio loves with a healthy dose of rock and roll edge.

What canons of beauty does he interpret and why did you choose him for latest Costume show and for your work?

Backstage I was snapping pictures and he was goofing around and every time I asked him to pose for me he would make these really hideous faces! I thought well those are useless shots. But then later when I was back in NYC I looked again and suddenly found them quite funny. It was interesting to see a model be ugly and his twisted figure was striking with its sharp-shouldered Costume jacket. He looked like a monster dressed up for a cocktail party. Because of his expressive contorted face, I was able to be especially aggressive with the paint. I love how his eyebrow and yellow eye acts like some sort of vortex.

Nick Cave has been called a cursed artist. How much does a fractious attitude more typical of the 1980s count today in the world of fashion and how does Jethro embody it in his role as “the son of Nick Cave?”

The cursed artist will never go out of style! In this recently ended era of commercialized slick art produced like a commodity it is easy to lose sight of the fact that real art requires sacrifice, pain and sometimes misery. It is not always neat and tidy. I think we will see a resurgence of art and fashion that reminds us of the treacherous path artists must travel. Jethro looks like he’s on that path, perhaps one his father cleared ahead of him… but still it is riddled with briars and spooks.

Does it make sense these days to be thought of as a cursed artist? And what about being seen as a cursed model (like Kate Moss)?

Being an artist is both a blessing and a burden. You are responsible to your sensitivity. You can not escape seeing the world through that lens. I think Kate Moss is not really cursed like an artist is, she just chooses to live a riskier life that we sometimes associate with artists.

Is it preferable to models that are prissy and composed or exuberant models that make an impression media-wise and win the viewer’s attention?

Models already represent a huge “edit”, a carefully dissected slice of the general populace. For each show we cast, we see probably 1000 models and even more are proposed that we don’t see. Then we pick around 20 for the show. If you can’t make an impression you don’t stand a chance!

Daniel Peddle Casting
The Secret Gallery, Inc.
206 West 23rd Street
Fifth Floor
New York, NY 10011
646 688 4077 Office

网站链接：画廊 选角Casting 

图片：Costume Nationl.com
摄影师：Glen Luchford
男模：Martin @ Elite模特经纪公司
女装代言（图片未列）：Diana Dondhoe @ IMG模特经纪公司